Saturday, June 23, 2012

Hangzhou


I’ve already been in Hangzhou for about three weeks now, and as you might have noticed from the complete lack of blog posts: I’ve been really busy.  Hangzhou is located in the Zhejiang province of China, and I’m staying and studying at Zhejiang University for the remainder of our trip.  For the study portion of this study abroad trip, I am taking two classes: Physical Chemistry and I’m also getting credit for research I’m doing while abroad.  Physical Chemistry has been challenging to say the least, since we are taking what is usually a 16 week class in 4 weeks.  But the research portion of my studies has been a really cool experience so far.  I’m working in Professor Yu Hongwei’s lab alongside one of his grad students, Guo Fei, and we are working with making mutant proteins and determining their enantioselectivity.  Being involved in the lab is not only cool for the scientific techniques and knowledge I’m learning, but also because I get to really get to know some Chinese graduate students.  Everyone in the lab is so welcoming and friendly.

 One of the first things we did when we got to Hangzhou was buy ourselves bikes.  Here in China almost everyone gets around on either a bike or a moped, and it is a great way to get around the city. Every day I ride my lime green bike about 15 minutes from the campus where we have Physical Chemistry class to the campus where my research lab is located, and we also bike to a lot of places we want to go within the city.  Hangzhou has more than 6 million people in just the urban area of the city, and having the opportunity to really live in a city in China for even just 5 short weeks has already taught me so much.  I feel like I already have so much of a better perspective on China and the rest of the world.
 
Out for an afternoon of playing pool with some of the graduate students from my lab!


Other than studying, being in lab all day, and doing copious amounts of homework, my time spent in Hangzhou so far has made me believe that it is a beautiful city and a great place to live.  On our first weekend in Hangzhou, Dr. Franzen took us to the Green Tea restaurant, and it has since been a favorite and we have already been back multiple times.  I’ve become far more adept at using chopsticks in the past few weeks, and I’ve been trying so many different food dishes that you wouldn’t see in the US, one of the most surprising being bullfrog.  I’ve heard of people eating frog in France, but it wasn’t something that I thought of when I thought of Chinese food.  Verdict on bullfrog: really does taste like chicken, only with a slightly richer taste.  Another interesting dish at Green Tea Restaurant is called ‘Bread Temptation’ in English,  which is basically just a huge cube of bread cut into smaller pieces with ice cream on top.  Sounds weird, tastes delicious. I’ve even grown to like having tea with dinner – here at restaurants they always give you very weak tea as a drink with your meal.  I still haven’t been brave enough to try the spicy fish head soup yet (Dr. Franzen’s favorite), but I’ve definitely been eating my fair share of Chinese culture.
On top of Physical Chemistry and research, we have also been having Chinese tutoring sessions twice a week.  Chinese is definitely difficult because there are four different tones you can use.  The same word can have four different meanings when spoken with a different tone.  But I feel like I’m definitely learning. When we go out to restaurants ordering our food is getting easier because of the Chinese we are learning, and last night I was able to communicate to the taxi cab driver about where we wanted to go in Chinese, which made me feel like the tutoring is starting to pay off.  We also had an additional ‘Cultural Lecture’ this Friday about Chinese calligraphy. One of Dr. Franzen’s friends is an artist, and she taught us all about Chinese painting and calligraphy and even let us try it out ourselves.  While my painting may have not been a work of art, seeing how effortlessly she could paint such beautiful pictures and draw the Chinese characters was amazing.
Tomorrow we are taking a day trip to Shanghai via the bullet train from Hangzhou, and I am so looking forward to it.  I’ll try to write more about Hangzhou and Shanghai soon!



Tuesday, June 12, 2012

Xian


After Beijing, our next stop in China was Xian.  To get there, we took a 12 hour overnight train from Beijing that set off around 8:40 PM.  Riding the night train was definitely a cool experience.  I was in a cabin that had two bunk beds with 3 others from my study abroad group. Tip: If you ever happen to ride the night train, take the top bunk – the air conditioning is up there.  Being on a train for twelve hours was definitely more enjoyable than the twelve hour plane ride I took from Detroit to Tokyo to get to China.  In a train you have the ability to get up and walk around, meet people from other cabins, and actually lie down to sleep.  Our entire train car was filled mostly with our group and a large group of students from Australia who were traveling in Asia as part of their education to become Travel Agents.  We somehow managed to fit about 10 people in our tiny compartment at one point and we played cards with some of the Australians and talked about what life is like in Australia.



Xian was formerly named Chang’an, and is the ancient capital of China.  Our train arrived around 8 am the next morning, and after a much-needed stop at our hotel, we set out to explore Xian. We first went to the History museum, where there were different exhibits for the different Chinese dynasties. My knowledge of Chinese history is very limited, so it was nice to learn more about some of the dynasties that are referenced at all of the tourist spots we’ve visited.  We went to two more attractions that day: Dayan Pagoda and Xian’s Drum tower, both of which were really cool.  Dayan Pagoda is 7 stories tall and was built in 652, and we got to go inside it – there are awesome views of Xian from the top.  It was incredible that a structure so old was still standing to this day.


Xian has an ancient city wall which is still intact that surrounds the center of the city.  The wall is almost 40 ft tall, and our first activity of the day was renting bicycles and riding on the city wall.  The entire wall is 9 km around, and riding bikes on this wall that is thousands of years old was an awesome experience. From the City wall we could see the park where the ancient palace was once located, so that’s where we decided our next stop was.  The ancient palace itself is now in ruins, but the location where it once was is now a very large park in the middle of Xian.  The park reminded me somewhat of Central Park in New York – but on an even larger scale.  You could see all the tall buildings of Xian all around the edges of the park.  Our trip to see the palace also included a paddle boat ride around the lake that was within the park.  One awesome thing about China: the paddle boats had roofs to shade you from the sun (Although at this point I had been outside all day and had already sun burnt).


The Park
Xian has a very different feel from Beijing as a City.  In Beijing almost every sign has both the Chinese characters and the English translation, which I believe may be because Beijing was the host city for the 2008 Olympics.  There is a lot less English in Xian, and that was immediately apparent to me from even just our trip from the train station to our hotel.  Xian is definitely still somewhat of a tourist city in China, but it was interesting to see two different big cities in China.

Our third day in Xian was dedicated entirely to climbing Huashan. After an early start and a 2 hour bus ride, we made it to the mountain.  Huashan is the mountain where the Emperor used to pray when the capital was in Xian, and though many people say Huashan isn’t as pretty or impressive as Yellow Mountain, it holds a spiritual significance for the people of China.  There are multiple temples on your way up the mountain, including one right at the top.  In my opinion, Huashan was incredibly impressive – though I have yet to go to Huangshan (that’s Chinese for Yellow Mountain).  On Huashan, every rope you see on the mountain is covered in locks that people have left there.



The climb of the mountain itself was definitely challenging.  The cable car we took goes about half way up the mountain, and then you get to climb the rest.  Stairs are carved into the mountain out of the stone, and in certain sections they can be very steep.  It was already a cool day in Xian, but at the top of the mountain with all of the wind it was really cold, which was quite a difference from getting sunburnt the day before. When we reached the top we all bought medals with our names engraved on them to commemorate the occasion.

Our last day in Xian started out with checking out of our hotel and taking a bus ride to The Terracotta Warriors.  When I first found out we were going to Xian, The Terracotta warriors were the only thing that I was familiar with.  They were something I had heard of before, but the difference between seeing pictures and actually being there is astonishing.  I didn’t really understand the scale of The Terracotta Warriors until I was there right in front of them. Right now each pit is being excavated and every effort to rebuild all of these soldiers is underway. The restoration and excavation of the site occurs during the night, so that it can be open to tourists during the day.  My favorite part of The Terracotta Warriors was seeing the pits that were still in the process of excavation.


After seeing the terracotta warriors, we got to take part in a tea tasting and tea ceremony.  The Chinese definitely take their tea seriously – sometimes I’ve even asked for water with dinner and gotten tea.  We tried multiple different kinds of tea, and even though I didn’t particularly care for any of them, seeing how big tea is a part of the culture was interesting.  After that we went to the Xian airport where we boarded our plane to Hangzhou, China, where I’ll be staying for the rest of my time here in China.

I’ll do my best to write a new update about Zhejiang University, where I’m studying abroad as soon as I can!

Wednesday, May 30, 2012


Beijing
It’s hard to believe that I left for China less than a week ago, because it seems like it has already been so long since I was back at home in North Carolina.  Currently I’m on the night train to Xian, so I’ve finally got some downtime to type up a post about Beijing.  After the long process of flying into Beijing, which took over 24 hours, (over 36 with the time change) we finally made it to our hotel in Beijing.  When we got to the hotel we all had to give the front desk our passports, as people who are not Chinese citizens have to register where they are staying.  After registering and receiving our room keys, it was after 11 PM here in China, so we all tried to get some sleep after the long travel day.
Our hotel was located right in the center of Beijing, so after breakfast we walked from our hotel to The Forbidden City, which was only about 10 minutes away.  There are bicycles and mopeds everywhere here in the city, in addition to crazy drivers.  There is a near constant sound of car horns on the streets, and the bicycles just zip fearlessly out in front of these cars at intersections.  On the larger roads there are large bike lanes because there are so many bicycles.
The entrance to The Forbidden City is located right on Tiananmen Square, so we took a quick stop there first.  The street that is in between Tiananmen Square and The Forbidden City is so big (7 lanes each way, plus two large bike lanes) that you have to go through a tunnel under the street to get to the square.

Tiananmen Square and the entrance to The Forbidden City (I hadn’t figured out the exposure settings on my camera at this point yet) 

Inside the Forbidden City
The Forbidden City is the palace that the emperors lived in after the capital was moved from Nanjing (which means South Capital) to Beijing (which means North Capital).  All of the signs were in both Chinese and English, so we were actually able to read the signs at the exhibits and learn about what we were seeing.   The Chinese architecture was amazing, and the gardens in The Forbidden City were beautiful. One interesting fact about The Forbidden City is that there are huge metal pots all over.  These pots were once filled with water, in the case of a fire because the whole structure is wood and Fires were quite common.  Our last stop was to the Buddhist temple across the street from The Forbidden City, which was elevated so you could see a bird’s eye view of the entire Forbidden City from the top.

The main focus of Day 2 in China was seeing The Great Wall of China.  Our tour guide came to pick us up in the morning, and we drove out of Beijing to the wall.  On the car ride out of Beijing, The scope of how huge this city truly is finally hit me.  Beijing is about three times bigger than New York City.  As we drove out of the city, we passed through the city gates and the City just kept on going.  There were so many high rise apartment buildings, and even more being constructed.  In some places it looked like an entire new city was being constructed at once with all of the apartment buildings that are now needed to accommodate the population in Beijing.
Actually being at The Great Wall of China was an amazing experience.  There were a lot of people there as it was a Saturday, and some locals come to The Great Wall as a way to escape the city during the weekend.
Another thing about China is that I am somewhat of a spectacle to the people of China.  Dr. Franzen told me that many of the Chinese tourists at the wall may have come from farther away and could have never seen a white person before in their life.  People wanted to take pictures with us, and they would openly stare at you and take pictures of you.  This also happened on our first day at Tianmen. Dr. Franzen  got someone to take a group photo of us and locals started jumping in wanting to take pictures with us.  It was a really interesting experience, because here I was at the Great Wall of China – which is such an amazing, beautiful place, and people wanted to take pictures with me.  It was surreal.


One of the people who wanted to take a picture of us at The Great Wall
After the wall we headed to lunch, and then got on our way to The Ming Tombs.  The Ming Tombs are where the 13 emperors of the Ming Dynasty were buried.  Each emperor had a huge tomb built for him, and construction for these tombs were started when the Emperor was as young as 20.  One of my favorite parts of the Ming Tombs was the gate that was the entrance to all of the tombs, which was called the Yin Yang Gate.  This gate was the gateway between the world of the living and the dead, as when most people passed that gate they never came back alive.  The people who buried the emperor were sealed in the tomb with him, as they knew the exact location and the valuables that the emperor was buried with. As we walked back out of the gate when we were leaving, we had to shake the dust off of ourselves and say ‘I am coming home,’ in Chinese so that we would re-enter the world of the living.

The Whole Group at the Ming Tombs
Our third day in Beijing started with taking cabs over to The Temple of Heaven.   The Temple of Heaven was one of the Emperors temples, and it was also where sacrifices were performed.  What was really cool about this place for me was that the locals used it as a park.  It was a big hang out spot for the locals, who were all playing their own versions of badminton, hacky sack, and other outdoor activities. At one part of the park area of the temple there were at least 50 people all doing sort of line dances to music together.  Trying to join in the dances was a fun experience for me.
Temple of Heaven

The afternoon was a free afternoon for us, so Hadi, Judy, Sarah, and I decided to go to Wangfujing, which is a very westernized part of the city.  We all did a bit of shopping for souvenirs and gifts for everyone there, and then went to the mall that is on the street.  The mall was absolutely huge, and it was interesting to see which American brands were there and it was also interesting to see the Chinese brands as well.
Day four was our last day in Beijing, so we all packed up our bags before heading down to breakfast.  After breakfast we walked over to Tiananmen Square again, to see the People’s museum.  Upon arriving we figured out that all of the museums were closed because it was a Monday.  After walking around the part of the square we didn’t see the first day, we took the subway back to our hotel.  The subway is really modern, and it was easy to navigate as everything was in both Chinese and English.  The one thing that was surprising to me on the subway was the sheer amount of people that were squished into each one of these trains.  There is no such thing as your own personal bubble on the Chinese subway.
In the afternoon we went to a Buddhist temple, Jietai Temple.  This temple was the second largest Buddhist temple in China, and it was absolutely beautiful.  Unlike many of the other stops in Beijing, this wasn’t much of a tourist location, so it was very quiet and peaceful.  There was a garden and there were trees that were about 1000 years old.  Our tour guide also taught me a lot about Buddhism while we were there.  For example, I didn’t know that there were 3 different Buddhas: past, present, and future Buddha.  The temple didn’t take as long as planned, so since we had a while before we needed to head back to Beijing to catch our night train, we sat in the gardens and Dr. Franzen talked a little about what we will be learning and some options for our research projects.  It was so peaceful sitting there in the gardens.  Also, who in the world can say they’ve had a Chemistry lesson at a Buddhist temple?

Jeitai Temple
From there we went to the train station in Beijing, where we got on our night train to Xian.
More updates about Xian coming soon!
-          Kirsty

Wednesday, May 23, 2012

An Introduction

Hi everybody! This summer I will be studying abroad at Zhejiang University, and tomorrow I will be getting on a series of planes to Beijing, China. I'm really excited to see what this summer has in store.

I've set up this blog in order to document and share my adventures in the next 7 weeks.  The first 9 or so days of my trip I will be traveling around China (mostly in Beijing and Xian) before arriving at Zhejiang University in Hangzhou, China.  In Hangzhou I will be conducting research and taking a Physical Chemistry class, as well as taking some weekend trips to other places in China. I'm not quite sure what to expect, nor do I know of what kind of internet access I will have in the next two weeks or so, but I will try to keep this blog updated as much as possible.

Due to internet restrictions in China, I won't be able to access blogger directly, so I won't be able to see any comments left here until after I get back.  If you want to get in touch with me, please use email (kjward2 at ncsu.edu) or skype (kirstyjward), but keep in mind that there is a 10 hour time difference!  My flight from RDU leaves at 9:20 AM tomorrow, and I still haven't finished packing. So that's all for this introduction!

- Kirsty